Sega handle pump seized

Somebody knows... Maybe you?
Post Reply
cheeky
Posts: 631
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 8:19 pm
Reaction score: 2
Location: North East Essex

Sega handle pump seized

Post by cheeky »

My Sega Mad Money handle pump has seized. Someone suggested stripping it down but how do I take the pump to pieces?
cheeky
Posts: 631
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 8:19 pm
Reaction score: 2
Location: North East Essex

Post by cheeky »

Help - Is there anyone out there?
User avatar
badpenny
Forum Moderator
Posts: 7211
Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 12:41 pm
Reaction score: 25
Location: East Midlands

To remove the damper on your Sega........

Post by badpenny »

Firstly remove the mech from the case. Disconnect the linkage from the damper to the inside of the handle mechanism. You may now be able to get a socket or spanner down underneath the base plate that the mech sits on to unbolt the damper from the base of the cabinet. However if you have the same sort of luck as me, you may have to remove the mech's base plate in order to get at it. Once you've unbolted it and got the damper out, you'll see that the two end caps are captive by being held in place by a metal strap and a rod which are bolted together at both ends. Undo these and you'll find the caps slide off. At this point you'll probably be leaking gooey grease oil all over your beloved's best table cloth. After you get the piston out , chances are the piston will no longer be forming an air tight seal inside the cylinder, in which case try reforming it by splaying it out and repacking with grease. If its ripped try replacing it with leather. If you had to remove the mech base plate in order to get at it and your machine has a jackpot bank fitted don't forget to replace the base plate exactly where it was or the jackpot linkage may not reconnect accurately when you slide the mech back in. Also buy a new tablecloth.
Best of luck
Badpenny :claps:
User avatar
badpenny
Forum Moderator
Posts: 7211
Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 12:41 pm
Reaction score: 25
Location: East Midlands

Damper pump handle sort of thingy

Post by badpenny »

I've just had a parallel thought about your problem. A common experience for me, jump to a conclusion, wade in with tools and rip out the steering rack on my car because it pulls to the left, only to find the tire pressures are uneven !
I'm sure you've checked but ........ is it the mech that's jammed and not the handle assembly?
Just a thought but worth checking.

Badpenny :P
cheeky
Posts: 631
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 8:19 pm
Reaction score: 2
Location: North East Essex

Post by cheeky »

If only.... No, it is definitely the pump. I have now removed it from the machine but can't work out how to get inside. It seems to be sealed apart from a screw at one end. How do I get the ends off?
User avatar
badpenny
Forum Moderator
Posts: 7211
Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 12:41 pm
Reaction score: 25
Location: East Midlands

Post by badpenny »

I've got my teeth working but now the memory is fading.
I've done 3 dampers in the last year, and thought the caps were just an inteference fit and should slide off after you've removed the retaining strap/bolt assembly.
There are only two options, they either slide off or unscrew. So an unscrewing motion is favourite either way, as there is obviously a sticky seal to break anyway.
Suggest heat.
Pop the whole thing in the freezer for half an hour, then apply heat to one of the ends before twisting. If you place it in a vice be careful not to squeeze it too hard or you may squash the cylinder, then you'd be in the soft and smelly.
Alternatively Diesel is an excellent free-er up of moving metal bits ( be careful about appying heat though!). It is possible that there is a connection between your pump being seized and the fact you can't remove the end caps.
The nut and screw assembly you refer to is the air restriction thingy that determines how quickly/slowly the air escapes under compression from the cylinder, thus determining how quickly/slowly the handle returns.
In fact I've just remembered a Jennings I once had where that vent got totally blocked resulting in a sealed cylinder of air with no where to go.
Consequently the ram inside locked up. Is that why your pump is not moving?
Get a spanner on the nut and remove that assembly, see if that frees up the so and so. if it does all you need to do then is get the scew out and poke about with a needle to reopen the hole.
Next week I shall be telling you all how to cure big end knock in your Jaguar V12 by readjusting the tappets!
Badpenny :-o
cheeky
Posts: 631
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 8:19 pm
Reaction score: 2
Location: North East Essex

Post by cheeky »

I'm sure the Jaguar big end will be easier to fix! I will have a play and let you know how I get on. I take it you have an engineering background?
User avatar
badpenny
Forum Moderator
Posts: 7211
Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 12:41 pm
Reaction score: 25
Location: East Midlands

Engineering Background Me????!!!!

Post by badpenny »

No, I haven't been hindered by any formal training in engineering. Just have a degree in bodge-ometry .... much more useful!

Don't despair, just remember that these machines spent most of their lives being adjusted with lump hammers and repaired with the best wire coat hangers money could buy! :smash:
User avatar
margamatix
Posts: 112
Joined: Sun Jan 02, 2005 10:22 pm
Reaction score: 0
Location: Margate

Re: Engineering Background Me????!!!!

Post by margamatix »

Badpenny wrote:No, I haven't been hindered by any formal training in engineering. Just have a degree in bodge-ometry .... much more useful!

Hah hah hah I'm glad I'm not the only one! :D :D :D
malcymal
Posts: 849
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 11:58 am
Reaction score: 0
Location: Bognor Regis, West Sussex, England

Re: To remove the damper on your Sega........

Post by malcymal »

Badpenny wrote:Firstly remove the mech from the case. Disconnect the linkage from the damper to the inside of the handle mechanism. You may now be able to get a socket or spanner down underneath the base plate that the mech sits on to unbolt the damper from the base of the cabinet. However if you have the same sort of luck as me, you may have to remove the mech's base plate in order to get at it. Once you've unbolted it and got the damper out, you'll see that the two end caps are captive by being held in place by a metal strap and a rod which are bolted together at both ends. Undo these and you'll find the caps slide off. At this point you'll probably be leaking gooey grease oil all over your beloved's best table cloth. After you get the piston out , chances are the piston will no longer be forming an air tight seal inside the cylinder, in which case try reforming it by splaying it out and repacking with grease. If its ripped try replacing it with leather. If you had to remove the mech base plate in order to get at it and your machine has a jackpot bank fitted don't forget to replace the base plate exactly where it was or the jackpot linkage may not reconnect accurately when you slide the mech back in. Also buy a new tablecloth.
Best of luck
Badpenny :claps:
An old posting on pennymachines helped me today as i fixed my Berkeley (sega) handle pump following these instructions from the grandmaster BP. So, i have now mastered the art of rejuvenating Mills handle pumps. The end cap came off straight away once the metal strap was removed as BP said. The grease was so old that it had formed a solid mass inside the cyclinder. I splayed open the piston whats it and instantly there was pressure when i held the cap back on to try it out, the adjuster screw worked straight away causing adequate pressure for the handle to return to rest once the second real stopped (got that info from a Mills maintenance manual), with a tiny dap of lube on the handle mounting to ensure this smoothly returned it now works beautiful, thanks BP for a really good bit of info. In tests 8 out of 10 cats said they preferred Badpenny. Malc
User avatar
andy-m
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Sep 30, 2008 9:48 pm
Reaction score: 0
Location: Dymchurch .Kent

Re: Sega handle pump - help required ......

Post by andy-m »

It's a shame I re-assembled mine at the weekend, could have took some pics.
As said, mine was full of thick 30 odd year old grease as well. A quick clean, fettle and an adjust - it's smooth as a smooth thing.
I did consider making something new up to replace the plunger washer but it shaped back just fine.

Good Luck In Your Quest :D
malcymal
Posts: 849
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 11:58 am
Reaction score: 0
Location: Bognor Regis, West Sussex, England

Re: Sega handle pump - help required ......

Post by malcymal »

I do admire your use of the word 'Fettle', its a great word.... "just going in my shed dear for a quick fettle"
User avatar
andy-m
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Sep 30, 2008 9:48 pm
Reaction score: 0
Location: Dymchurch .Kent

Re: Sega handle pump - help required ......

Post by andy-m »

Nothing like a good fettling, it's legal as well :roll:
User avatar
coppinpr
Posts: 5111
Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2010 2:01 pm
Reaction score: 20
Location: Lewes, East Sussex
Contact:

sega arm damper

Post by coppinpr »

Topics merged - site admin

I know I saw a post on the forum about servicing the pump on Mills/Sega fruit machines. Didn't need it then and can't find it now I do. Can anyone point me in the right direction?Thanks.
User avatar
treefrog
Posts: 4813
Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2008 2:46 pm
Reaction score: 31
Location: Suffolk

Re: sega arm damper

Post by treefrog »

Topic merged above.
User avatar
coppinpr
Posts: 5111
Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2010 2:01 pm
Reaction score: 20
Location: Lewes, East Sussex
Contact:

Re: sega arm damper

Post by coppinpr »

Thanks, Paul.........
malcymal
Posts: 849
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 11:58 am
Reaction score: 0
Location: Bognor Regis, West Sussex, England

Re: sega arm damper

Post by malcymal »

Take off the bracket, pull off the cap, remove the solid mass of grease and wipe off old muck and oil, splay the leather piston out, put a tiny drop of sewing machine oil on the shaft, reassemble, adjust the air screw at the back, test resistance by pushing shaft in by hand. If you can't push it in, adjust the air hole. Put it back on machine and keep adjusting until the handle returns smoothly without the handle bang. If it still isn't returning, the spring attaching the handle assemby to the case has worn or come off.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 30 guests