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Done and on the shelf. Germany and Britain together at last.

Have you considered one of the three ball stack R&W machines (nicer than the "Hat Trick"). These are, in my view, some of the most playable allwins of all. I have a "Many Happy Returns" but would love the cigarette paying "Yours to be Won".

Many Happy Returns is definitely up there. In the same genre, a Samsons' Challenger (or Mini Challenger) would be cool.
I wouldn't want Yours To Be Won though, I'm not into stuff with tobacco references.

But I specifically want The Hat Trick because it has that physical variable chance that can be adjusted by the operator. One thing I LOVE in this hobby is stories about the ways operators tried to maximize their profits, either through underhanded tactics or offering the illusion of better odds through machine design. The Hat Trick had the adjustable tubes that could be swapped by the operator to change the odds whenever they wanted.

The Hat Trick also has a parallel to Japanese pachinko machines where some would have "clunes", a physical cluster of holes to fall through where only one would advance you to the win, or the next physical chance round.
I run a history booth at the local pinball+gameroom show, so for me if I got a Hat Trick it would allow me to tell even more stories and make more cross-continental connections in machine evolution.

Topic moved & merged - Site Admin.

Ok, so I’ve bought a Bell Cascade unseen and when I removed the back discovered that the coin mech is missing as well as the coin pusher on the side.
Anyone know where I get get them from? Anyone got any to sell ?
Also what is it like if I have to remove the Playfield ? I’ve heard stories that these are a nightmare to rebuilt and keep every part in place?

Was it listed or described honestly

As has been mentioned before, I am fairly certain the coin acceptors are smaller than the standard S10’s and never seen them for sale, but would have to look at mine again to confirm. Maybe why missing.

The slide bar is more simple, a dealer has been selling repros on eBay for years for over £25 delivered and they are unplated which originals are https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CASCADE-STRI ... SwnTdZ7b4y

Can’t remember if MR PM was selling them, maybe wrong

Also do you have the pressure bar on the back, can’t see in picture. I have never had a challenge taking apart and putting back, you just need to do it at an angle.

Hi TF, The short answer was no, it was not listed honestly. The seller said "The machine operators
randomly., however does reject some coins.".
There is no way it can operate at all without the coin mech or the coin flicker, so a little disapointed but hey ho, that's what happens sometimes.

I don't know what a "standard S10 is, but will look it up. I'd appreciate your help in comparing it to your own.

This is the complete rear view

I would have hit them

So dug out and you will see how tiny this item is by comparison to standard units. Showing the standard S10 and its larger cousin next to the tiny Cascade version, which is 6 by 6.5 cm.

Never seen one for sale in 12 years of collecting but seen lots of Cascades missing them, maybe the same machines going around. Just make a coin chute straight to the machine, easily done......

There are quite a few members on this site who are arcade operators etc who should know the names for each of these units, maybe they will share. Search S10 and you will find the manual in the resources, not for the others though

Hi Geordie ...

I imagine the pressure bar is there, otherwise all the trips would be in a pile at the bottom of the case. Unless you've got the "grabity" turned down in your part of Lincoln.

I agree the coin reject mech is a bit of an oddity and not standard. The reason they're often missing is they were designed for the original 1np as issued in 1971. Then when the steel core 1np coins were released in 1992, their thickness was increased by .13mm. As the number in circulation increased the fewer were getting through the mech. Usually there's a fold of cardboard replacing it, why the owners at the time didn't deposit the mech inside the coin box I don't understand. It's what I always do with anything I remove from a machine, even if it's when replacing springs and split pins.
If you check through the "Search" facility above you'll find chapter and verse of laying on the floor between two chairs with the case suspended above you.

Anyway if it were me, I'd make a connecting tube from copper sheet or similar to line up the two ends. An original rejector would still need fettling so as not to be prejudiced.

BP

If you search this site, there's pics & dimensions of the coin flicker & it's quite easy to make your own, out of a bit of 1.5mm flat plate.

Here it is.

The coin flicker works nicer if you make it from brass

pennymachines wrote: ↑Tue May 26, 2020 2:24 pm Here it is.

Thanks for that BP, I couldn't find it myself. Is it definitely 1.5mm thick ? it looks a bit thicker than that in the photos, mind you I do have 1.5mm thick brass sheet in stock !

ref the flicker, it must be perfectly flat and polished up or it will stick. These are fun machines, but a pain when they play up.
1 use a magnet and get rid of all the steel coins if you can.

2 when refitting the trips on the workbench, put coins in the runways to hold the trips in place as you fiddle with the glass.

3 place glass on top of the backboard and secure very firmly with gaffer tape, 2 each side top and bottom. This can be left in place permanently and is easy to remove from half of the glass, leaving the rest to act as a hinge if more fiddling is required.

4 never transport flat as coins will end up all over the place and will need a stripdown......enjoy

Biggest problem I have seen with the hammer is the wear that occurs on the face plate, eventually the hammer cuts into the faceplate and of course does not run smoothly. Common fix seen is to put a washer under the screw in corner of plate which takes away the wear on the plate. Yes hammer has to be silky smooth, so plated is best.

I know they were cheaply made, but from a playability they are one of the most addictive and enjoyable games to play and understand the prices levels reached. Only have one now and a keeper.

Thanks Raj and Treefrog for your advice, much appreciated.

Don't forget that for the coin flicker you'll still need a bit of hardware to hold it in place, and that goes right through its center.

cait001 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 02, 2020 2:28 pm Don't forget that for the coin flicker you'll still need a bit of hardware to hold it in place, and that goes right through its center.

You'll need a shoulder screw, like this. Although I'm not sure of the size.
https://www.wdscomponents.com/en-gb/sho ... AEQAvD_BwE

geordy55 wrote: ↑Tue May 26, 2020 2:45 pm

pennymachines wrote: ↑Tue May 26, 2020 2:24 pm Here it is.

Thanks for that BP, I couldn't find it myself. Is it definitely 1.5mm thick ? it looks a bit thicker than that in the photos, mind you I do have 1.5mm thick brass sheet in stock !

I think you are getting your BP's and PM's muddled.

Well they both look so similar

..... to what?