To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

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timosix
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To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Post by timosix »

Hello,
I have been reading as much as I can from your fantastic forum after I rediscovered my Sega Bell at my mum's house. I have had it since I was 6 years old (it took me most of my childhood to work out how most of it operated).

I had thought trying to keep the machine as original as possible would be what most collectors would be interested in but I am surprised how many units are stripped down and completely repainted. At present I have stripped my machine down and cleaned the paintwork as is and I am trying to decide on whether to repaint it or keep the patina effect.

When you guys strip the mechanics down do you immerse in paraffin or other solvent and clean up with a brush ? I am not sure the best approach? Also the oak base was broken off at the front so I have bought a new one from Henry Powell and I am wondering what the best approach would be to help match the colour to the original sides which I am going to sand down and varnish. Can anyone help me date it?

Any pointers/opinions would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Timo
My old girl before I started:
My old girl before I started:


IMG_2286Copy.jpg

widget2k4
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Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Post by widget2k4 »

Nice machine there :)
Me personally, would repaint it, but that's what I do with mine. Other people like to leave them as they are to show their true history etc.
I use a mix of paraffin and petrol when I clean my mechs up with a stiff brush. Don't use grease putting it back together, just use a light oil.
I need a replacement base for my castle front. Is Henry's base made of wood or MDF, as I want to keep mine wood?
I used a replacement MDF one on my Jennings and had a job with it trying to get things to fit right.
Whatever you decide, please keep us updated, as it's good to see progress.

Oh, and I would have all that lovely alloy polished to a mirror finish if it was mine. :)
timosix
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Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Post by timosix »

Hi Widget,

Thanks for your reply. Henry's base arrived in the post today. Its real wood (oak), I will sand down the original sides but I think I may struggle to get them anywhere near a similar colour without going with a dark varnish.

The metal bits I am hand polishing with Autosol and I am impressed how much its gleaming already.

- Is there anyway to date these machines the serial number is present ( I appreciate the Sega Bell is only a re badged Mills High Top)
- In the black metal door there seems to be two slots to hold a card/ instructions etc? What would of this been.
- Arm damper seems to be missing and adjustment screw, any photo's of what and where this should go?

So many questions, I am loving all this!

Timo
widget2k4
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Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Post by widget2k4 »

I am sure someone will be along to help you shortly mate, as I don't have a High Top myself or had one yet.
Autosol is good and should bring it up nice. :)
timosix
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Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other questions

Post by timosix »

Topic merged - Site Admin.

Can you help me with a few queries?

- The serial number is 723847. Is there any way to work out its age? When did Mills get bought by Sega?
- The main handle spindle bracket has a 'hook' which attaches to the return spring that helps pull the handle back up. It's very worn and about to go through, so I am going to ask someone at work to weld it. What metal is it and is it easy to do?
- Main handle damper (next to coin box) seems to be missing an adjustment screw at the back. Any pictures of what it should look like? (Hole in middle of it?)
- Cleaning up the mechanism during disassembly, I was told to use paraffin. On the forum it says to use light oil, but not near any areas that contact the coins. No grease? Not even in the handle spindle? Looks like some was put there beforehand.
- In the back door there looks like two slots where an instruction card was kept. Any idea what was on it?
- Any pointers to how many sixpence coins I will need in this machine to fill the jackpot mechanism and coin tube so that coins end up in the box. I have ~130 and that doesn't seem to be anywhere near enough.
- Henry Powell has supplied me a fantastic new oak base for my machine as the original had split off at the front. He gave some pointers, but any advice on getting the old oak sides off and putting on the new base?

So many questions, but if anyone could help with these for now?

Thanks

Timo
Attachments
Handle spindle linkage:
Handle spindle linkage:
Hook nearly gone through:
Hook nearly gone through:
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treefrog
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Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Post by treefrog »

Apologies for not responding to your messages as well, but looks like most of your machine is there, although you have not shared any pictures of the rear. Do you have the payout tray trim, which would have been attached to the missing piece of wood? If not, these are tough to replace and there a few types depending on the height of the payout tray.

Not sure what the metal is; I would have said steel, but probably some kind of alloy, as looking at it, they may be cast. I also see you need to replace the jackpot glass, which should be easy. These are quite thick; some people stick two pieces of glass together.

Never counted the amount of coins in the tube, but would guess around 160-180 in tube and 200 in jackpot.

In terms of repainting, that is your choice, as obviously yours has seen its use and has an amount of loss. The red colour is one of the common types used on the Segas and would have been textured/wrinkle paint. Don't know about the serial number, but would guess your machine is about 61 to 63. Often there is a date on the sticker as well.
widget2k4
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Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Post by widget2k4 »

The screw on the pump looks like this one in my Sega.
It's strange you have not had any replies with your questions yet as the guys on here are normally spot on and fast to help out :)
I have noticed the forums been rather quiet last few days, so maybe everyone is just chilling out and enjoying their machines?

I put a little smear of grease on the handle where it goes through the boss, but that's all.
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IMG_3245.jpg
timosix
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Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Post by timosix »

Hi,

Thanks for the replies. The payout trim (apron?) was missing so I bought a new one from Henry along with some thick jackpot glass. I don't have a jackpot glass retaining frame or retainer tabs but was told that the Jackpot mechanism itself should hold the glass in place?

If that linkage is a steel or steel alloy I guess it should be easy enough to weld?
Attachments
Unfortunately the serial number sticker is not in great shape, no dates I can see:
Unfortunately the serial number sticker is not in great shape, no dates I can see:
Mech is as: (didn't want to bore you guys with too many photo's but since you ask...
Mech is as: (didn't want to bore you guys with too many photo's but since you ask...
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gameswat
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Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Post by gameswat »

That handle bracket with spring wear is just pressed steel, so no prob for anybody with an arc welder to repair.

As for the paint, I really like the look once you cleaned it. What I've figured out over the years is that if there is a hard decision on what to do, then do nothing! Live with it and you can decide over time if it needs re-doing. A lot less work involved and it can always be done in the future, but you can never go back and replace that original finish!! And since you've owned the thing this long, and have history together, I'd say keep it. There are sooo many restored machines but not that many nice originals left which makes this stand out. Have a look on US eBay at the tons of brand new looking but vintage slots - how boring!!
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badpenny
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Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Post by badpenny »

widget2k4 wrote: ......... maybe everyone is just chilling out and enjoying their machines ?
Maybe, just preparing for a 260 lot slot auction in Coventry in just under a fortnight?

That handle bracket is mild steel, you could drill a small hole and feed through a keyring type link to attach the spring to.

I clipped your photo of the inspection tab, enlarged it and turned it into a Black & White negative. That showed the year was "_9_8" the day and month were lost so I guess it's 1958.

I would not repaint it if it were mine.

BP
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Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Post by marktol »

Your mech looks like it's missing the springs on the payout fingers, if you haven't already taken them off?

Depending how much glass you were sent, it may not be thick enough with just the JP. You could use some cardboard here cut to the right size to pad it out if needed, as opposed to buying the spacers.

A good source of spares for smaller stuff is mrslot1.com who ships from America and is very reasonably priced.

Best of luck,
Mark
Last edited by marktol on Mon Nov 11, 2013 9:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
timosix
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Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Post by timosix »

Wow I am amazed with the photo of the date trickery, would 1958 be too early for a Sega?

I have bought all the missing springs from Henry. When I was a kid, I used elastic bands to 'repair' it. I am not sure I want to deal with Mr Slot who 'shits' from the US!!!! :D
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coppinpr
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Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Post by coppinpr »

A good source of spares for smaller stuff is mrslot1.com who shits from America and is very reasonably priced.
Now that sounds messy, Mark !!COOEE!!
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Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Post by marktol »

Opps - Monday morning caffeine hasn't kicked in yet...!
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coppinpr
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Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Post by coppinpr »

There is no getting away from it, fitting a new base is not easy. Did yours come with slots cut in it? I've just done a Jennings which did, but I can't remember if the Mills ones are slotted. Even if it is, it may well not quite fit, which is a real pain, and then added to that, fitting a base means a complete strip down of the case, top and bottom castings, pump, and main plate. The main plate is important - mark its position where it meets the sides, so it can go back into the same position when you rebuild. Is is important for positioning of the mech with regard to the JP etc. The main plate might slide out backwards, but usually not, and needs a bit of "jiggery pokery" to get it out and back in again. You may well need to drill holes in the new base to match the side connections. You will also need to position the pump with care, but this is a good time to service the pump (it has no oil in it, only on the shaft).

I differ from the hard purists, I like to restore machines once they have passed a certain stage of distress. I think yours has. I would strip and repaint in an original colour. This is my view only and the gurus may well disagree. I think they look better and get a re-birth.

How many coins do you need...? Loads../ think of a number and double it. The jackpot alone, if set for max size will take 200. The coin tube? Another 150.
I've never seen anyone mention this, but a stack of 10 shillings worth of 6d coins (20) is exactly 1 inch tall, so you can measure it out !SMARTY!

Come to Coventry, there are usually loads of 6d for sale and, dare I say it, loads of spares at half the price HP charges.
hi-top yellow.jpg

Here is a flyer for the type 'D':
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early sega type d.jpg
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gameswat
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Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Post by gameswat »

Coppin is dead right about it being a serious job to replace the base. Is the original that bad it can't have a new front spliced in? Sounds hard but a handy woodworker should have no trouble cutting off the damaged wood leaving a clean line to glue to. And anybody restoring furniture will have a stock of old oak to match in fine. Those bases usually have joins in them anyway so another won't be noticed. A few biscuit joiners and glue the thing back together and no problem. The repro base would come in handy as a pattern to copy the size and shape and still be on-sold on this site afterwards.
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Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Post by marktol »

Good Point,

I recently had to re-glue a hi top base. It was in three sections; glued and held together mainly by the two runners (batons) on the bottom and the sides, which are glued on. Not all bases are made out of three planks. Some are solid, but it should be a fairly simple job, as you say, to neaten off the existing and attach a new section to replace the missing broken part.

That would then hopefully save the need to mess around with the handle pump and the base plate, which would make it a much more tricky job, as Paul pointed out previously.

Mark.
timosix
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Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Post by timosix »

Hiya,

You guys are frightening the life out of me. I didn't think replacing the base would be that bad. The new one is routed out where the old sides need to fit so I just need to loosely fit them on then make sure the back door is at 90 degrees. Fit the front metal parts of the cabinet and mark where the apron is going in.

I suppose I need to make sure the sides are positioned so the handle is in the correct position?

I doesn't seem that bad. Please wise coin machine gurus, what am I missing....?
Old and new base:
Old and new base:


Old base broken off:
Old base broken off:

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arrgee
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Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Post by arrgee »

Neat base job, timosix.

ps........ 4 across is 'used car' !!CHEERS!!
timosix
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Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Post by timosix »

Any ideas how to make a tool to fit into the external handle collar (4 small holes) to unscrew it? I was thinking of using a bit of hardwood and panel pins across two of the holes to make a lever. Any better ideas that don't involve welding?

Anyone has experience of matching the new and old parts of the wooden cabinet. I was going to wait till I sanded it down till I pondered that one but any guidance would be good.

Thanks.
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