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The door should be easy enough to make out of wood & a Lowe & Fletcher lock should fit.
I think this seller also has the direction arrows.
Good luck with it, I'm just up the A52, in Derby.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256160337587 ... SwRwdjnJI7

Had to do a double take then. I thought it said Joy Suck, which I'm sure would've been a very popular machine, had it been made...

Can you push the reels across, so the payout discs are closer together? If so, you might be able to cure it by putting a washer between the 1st reel & the mech frame.

Look like they've been under the sea.

That's cool, but not £128 cool!

This stuff is also really good at freeing stubborn bolts etc.
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engin ... 21533.html

Exactly this. I had the same problem on a SEGA recently, and all it required was a small adjustment of the dog & anvil.

The coin tube should be easy to make. You just need a short length of tube of the right diameter for old pennies with a couple of plates welded on. I used 14mm ball bearings in my Jackpot allwin, made by the same company. Backflash looks to be original. As for top flash, give Paul Coppin on here a m...

aristomatic wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2023 1:57 pm Nice full pint of Double Diamond on the artwork would have worked wonders on its distribution

I see what you did, there.

gameswat wrote: ↑Tue Aug 22, 2023 10:19 am"How much did he sell the machines for? Hold on...10 to 15 quid apiece (or roughly $25 usd per slot machine!) in 1975!"

Looks like one of the Beromat conversions, but I've not seen one like that before.

They stop the electrics from frying, if someone holds the button in for too long. Also, they are used in the payout circuit to ring a bell, when a win is achieved.

It's a square of rubber that dampens the end travel of the arm. Mine have turned to mush! If you're on about this rubber, they can be a bit tricky to get out. I've found the best way is to remove the bracket then drill 2 holes from the rear adjacent to the 2 lugs that fold over the rubber. Then you...

This is the pivot I'm on about. It's at the back of the machine, next to where the slide springs attach. The lever you can see holds the safety slide in place. Undo the screw and fit a washer that's smaller than the diameter of the shoulder and when you tighten it down, it should clamp the lever in ...

chris roadhog wrote: ↑Wed Aug 09, 2023 2:09 pm Can't get on Arena. Asking for payment again?

Same for me, but worked after I logged out & in again.

The extra coin will be because of the removed safety slide. The coin will be filling the space where it would have been. Try putting it back, then lock the arm that holds it in the open position. You can do this by removing the shoulder screw at the pivot point, then put a washer on that will clamp ...

Could try Novus 2 plastic cleaner. You'll find it at most pinball suppliers.

Think I paid about a fiver for mine.

Looks like a good project.
Are you still touring the arcade? Was hoping to see you at Elvaston Steam Fair, a couple of weeks ago.

The arm that hits the ball should have a rubber stop inside the chrome housing. They are usually hard as wood, after all these years, but I usually replace with some suitable rubber. Whales machines were made in Redcar in Yorkshire. Yours was probably made in the mid '50s. You can get pennies from U...