Mills Vest Pocket
Re: Mills Vest Pocket
Well, I think this little Vest Pocket lost me some hair tonight in great bloody chunks, ripped out by the handful no less! But damn it all to hell, I didn't give up. And after a half litre of energy drink I semi-confidently walked back out to my workshop at 11.30pm to try and figure out the random jamming problem. My big issue with this mech is the tiny size which makes it really hard to see what's going on with the payout mech. This was jamming at odd times no matter what I did to adjust it. And to unjam is a nightmare. I recently found a different manual than my first (which was little help) sold on eBay that included the Sega manual as an extra. I paid my cash and had it sent to a US friend for on-postage to me, of course the seller didn't do overseas sales, of paper manuals!??? Anyway it did have a lot more adjustment info in the Sega version plus many more diagrams. I figured out a way to remove the coin tube and payout mech so I could adjust the coin payout adjustment, which is what I thought I kept getting slightly wrong somehow. This was much easier to see what was happening, and it helped that I had a basket case Sega mech to compare with, as the Mills and Sega do differ in detail slightly.
Anyway, as I was putting it back together I noticed an adjustment that I hadn't known of thanks to the original US manual. The Sega manual showed that the payout slide was supposed to be slightly inset from the coin tube, but mine was adjusted to be slightly proud. So I think that occasionally, with slightly larger dia coins, they would catch this edge and tilt, and this was the coin on top of the stack ready to payout, so instead of cleanly paying 10 coins for example, number 11 would tilt down at the front and partly slip through, just enough to jam up everything, and no payout. Which explains why when I'd shine a torch in through the payout cup to look, there would be one extra coin twisted at the top. I kept assuming that I had the coin payout adjusted incorrectly, but I must've had it right so many times, DOH. Once I had it back together, everything works perfectly, at 2 am! Hoo - Bloody - Ray. Just started restoring the Sega version and that will be a laugh with all the knowledge I now have.............. gameswat
Anyway, as I was putting it back together I noticed an adjustment that I hadn't known of thanks to the original US manual. The Sega manual showed that the payout slide was supposed to be slightly inset from the coin tube, but mine was adjusted to be slightly proud. So I think that occasionally, with slightly larger dia coins, they would catch this edge and tilt, and this was the coin on top of the stack ready to payout, so instead of cleanly paying 10 coins for example, number 11 would tilt down at the front and partly slip through, just enough to jam up everything, and no payout. Which explains why when I'd shine a torch in through the payout cup to look, there would be one extra coin twisted at the top. I kept assuming that I had the coin payout adjusted incorrectly, but I must've had it right so many times, DOH. Once I had it back together, everything works perfectly, at 2 am! Hoo - Bloody - Ray. Just started restoring the Sega version and that will be a laugh with all the knowledge I now have.............. gameswat
Re: Mills Vest Pocket
Just about have my Sega VP sorted now. I'm missing reel strips though and have yet to find anybody selling the correct black versions. I can make them but to save a lot of time if anybody happens to have a loose example they could scan I'd be thrilled. Thanks. The black versions have a little white outline around each symbol to make them stand out, and to add this to each normal symbol will take quite awhile.
Had a different problem with the Sega mech. The payout lever trip wouldn't budge unless you really forced it. The two responsible springs seemed fine but on close inspection I found that no matter how I adjusted the lock lever, that to release it the payout slide had to actually move backwards against a very strong spring. I filed an ever so slight angle to the lever and then used emery paper to smooth every possible scrtch or edge away. So that now the payout doesn't need to move at all until it's tripped, and a lot less force required to trigger it. Not sure why this should be an issue except that the machine has done a bit of work in it's time. I also just found that an operator had drilled six extra payout holes for every Lemon symbol. Making a very liberal payoff. Filled the holes with brass countersunk headed screws and soldered them in place.
Had a different problem with the Sega mech. The payout lever trip wouldn't budge unless you really forced it. The two responsible springs seemed fine but on close inspection I found that no matter how I adjusted the lock lever, that to release it the payout slide had to actually move backwards against a very strong spring. I filed an ever so slight angle to the lever and then used emery paper to smooth every possible scrtch or edge away. So that now the payout doesn't need to move at all until it's tripped, and a lot less force required to trigger it. Not sure why this should be an issue except that the machine has done a bit of work in it's time. I also just found that an operator had drilled six extra payout holes for every Lemon symbol. Making a very liberal payoff. Filled the holes with brass countersunk headed screws and soldered them in place.
- special when lit
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Re: Mills Vest Pocket
Try this guy for reel strips. He's got them listed in his catalogue.
http://www.mrslot1.com/
http://www.mrslot1.com/
Re: Mills Vest Pocket
Thanks, but I already checked that catalogue a while ago and only the white Mills strips available. I don't remember ever seeing anybody selling the black Sega strips.Special When Lit wrote: Try this guy for reel strips. He's got them listed in his catalogue.
http://www.mrslot1.com/
Re: Mills Vest Pocket
Just pulled my part restored Sega VP out of storage and I'm close to finally finishing the damn thing! But my last task will be to make the missing black reel strips. Just before i do go to hours of trouble tonight I'll ask one last time if anybody has a loose set, or even one loose original black Sega reel strip to suit - a scan please!? I only have partial pieces left and in very bad cond so a lot of touching up required and then measuring and spacing out of symbols.
I was hoping to just polish the alloy case but the repro door that needed putty and roughly machined original case put paid to that idea. Tried again to paint with modern hammerite paint but after two attempts still wasn't happy with the results in the original light blue. So third effort was the wrinkle effect only used by Mills. I chose the black and gold version and looks very classy indeed.
I was hoping to just polish the alloy case but the repro door that needed putty and roughly machined original case put paid to that idea. Tried again to paint with modern hammerite paint but after two attempts still wasn't happy with the results in the original light blue. So third effort was the wrinkle effect only used by Mills. I chose the black and gold version and looks very classy indeed.
Re: Mills Vest Pocket
OK, reel strips not a problem anymore!! I just started looking hard at what i have and realised that all Sega did was take the original Mills strips and paint black around the symbols leaving the small white outline. So i can just buy a white set for $9.99 and paint in the black myself saving a ton of time. Great when a plan falls into place.
Re: Mills Vest Pocket
Me again.......in the course of cutting back the rusty as hell payout door on my restoration I've lost all the 6D Mini Sega lettering. Wasn't even worth scanning it was that badly pitted. Could someone please scan or photograph their nice example for me so i can acid etch mine back in? Thought I could live without it but ain't gonna happen!! Thank you.
- badpenny
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Re: Mills Vest Pocket
Not sure if this falls into the category of a nice example, but it is the only one I have ........
Re: Mills Vest Pocket
Finished this last week and sadly already gone......Thanks to BP again for sending the pic of the door for me to copy!
- badpenny
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Re: Mills Vest Pocket
Impressive, but how ............
* A steady hand?
* Tracing paper?
* Brass, Ferric Chloride then plated?
* CAD?
* Laser?
* Phaser on stun?
* A steady hand?
* Tracing paper?
* Brass, Ferric Chloride then plated?
* CAD?
* Laser?
* Phaser on stun?
Re: Mills Vest Pocket
I use this resist film called PNP-Blue, google for info on that. Print out the background of the artwork in reverse (because you need to iron it on so then it will be the correct way again). Has to be printed with a laser or photocopier. Then touch up any spots or blemishes with a paint. Into an acid bath of Ammonium Persulphate for about 30 mins and viola! This plate was steel and i tried various different acids but this was easily the best of what i had at hand. It came from an electronics store to be used for circuit boards. Only my third effort thus far so still a way to go, plus been awhile so forgot some of the tricks i learnt last time!
Didn't take pics of this Sega job but here's some from the last time about 3 years ago. Made this Bussoz "La Girouette" name plate as a gift for a friend in Melb who was missing it. He'd done me a great favor picking up and packing a huge leaded glass chemist sign I'd bought over there on eBay. I once had the original plate turned backwards on a revamped Pinup Girl to copy from. This plate is etched brass by the way but doesn't look like it here, then plated and aged to suit the rest of the machine in the finished photo.
Didn't take pics of this Sega job but here's some from the last time about 3 years ago. Made this Bussoz "La Girouette" name plate as a gift for a friend in Melb who was missing it. He'd done me a great favor picking up and packing a huge leaded glass chemist sign I'd bought over there on eBay. I once had the original plate turned backwards on a revamped Pinup Girl to copy from. This plate is etched brass by the way but doesn't look like it here, then plated and aged to suit the rest of the machine in the finished photo.
- badpenny
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Re: Mills Vest Pocket
That is impressive.
I've not come across Ammonium Persulphate before.
I've used FeCl3 in the past which is also used on PCBs.
Having still got one lung working on full bore and simply oodles of square inches of skin that's not stained a rusty soup colour; I'll go and read up on that one.
BP
I've not come across Ammonium Persulphate before.
I've used FeCl3 in the past which is also used on PCBs.
Having still got one lung working on full bore and simply oodles of square inches of skin that's not stained a rusty soup colour; I'll go and read up on that one.
BP
Re: Mills Vest Pocket
Haven't got a clue what you guys are talking about, but mighty impressive irrespective.....I dream of having the resto initiative some of you seem to have.......Funny that this flap seem to be a common area that always seems to deteriorate on the Mini Segas. I guess poor quality materials used.
Re: Mills Vest Pocket
Hello together,
I have bought a 6d Mini Sega in Bristol, I hope is coming to me in a good condition. Can me help someone if everything is not working? Torsten
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mills-pocket ... SwGIZeVqPA
greats Torsten
I have bought a 6d Mini Sega in Bristol, I hope is coming to me in a good condition. Can me help someone if everything is not working? Torsten
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mills-pocket ... SwGIZeVqPA
greats Torsten
Re: Mills Vest Pocket
I am sure people can help, but that was a very expensive buy. I sold one of these at last year's Derby sale for £160 working............ I still have another two, in had one in Coventry.
Re: Mills Vest Pocket
no the price was a little bit cheaper than the Ebay price, but not so cheap. if you have 1 over your requirment i will bought it to.
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