To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

[marktol]

Your mech looks like it's missing the springs on the payout fingers, if you haven't already taken them off?

Depending how much glass you were sent, it may not be thick enough with just the JP. You could use some cardboard here cut to the right size to pad it out if needed, as opposed to buying the spacers.

A good source of spares for smaller stuff is mrslot1.com who ships from America and is very reasonably priced.

Best of luck,
Mark

[timosix]

Wow I am amazed with the photo of the date trickery, would 1958 be too early for a Sega?

I have bought all the missing springs from Henry. When I was a kid, I used elastic bands to 'repair' it. I am not sure I want to deal with Mr Slot who 'shits' from the US!!!!

[coppinpr]

A good source of spares for smaller stuff is mrslot1.com who shits from America and is very reasonably priced.

Now that sounds messy, Mark

[marktol]

Opps - Monday morning caffeine hasn't kicked in yet...!

[coppinpr]

There is no getting away from it, fitting a new base is not easy. Did yours come with slots cut in it? I've just done a Jennings which did, but I can't remember if the Mills ones are slotted. Even if it is, it may well not quite fit, which is a real pain, and then added to that, fitting a base means a complete strip down of the case, top and bottom castings, pump, and main plate. The main plate is important - mark its position where it meets the sides, so it can go back into the same position when you rebuild. Is is important for positioning of the mech with regard to the JP etc. The main plate might slide out backwards, but usually not, and needs a bit of "jiggery pokery" to get it out and back in again. You may well need to drill holes in the new base to match the side connections. You will also need to position the pump with care, but this is a good time to service the pump (it has no oil in it, only on the shaft).

I differ from the hard purists, I like to restore machines once they have passed a certain stage of distress. I think yours has. I would strip and repaint in an original colour. This is my view only and the gurus may well disagree. I think they look better and get a re-birth.

How many coins do you need...? Loads../ think of a number and double it. The jackpot alone, if set for max size will take 200. The coin tube? Another 150.
I've never seen anyone mention this, but a stack of 10 shillings worth of 6d coins (20) is exactly 1 inch tall, so you can measure it out

Come to Coventry, there are usually loads of 6d for sale and, dare I say it, loads of spares at half the price HP charges.

Here is a flyer for the type 'D':

[gameswat]

Coppin is dead right about it being a serious job to replace the base. Is the original that bad it can't have a new front spliced in? Sounds hard but a handy woodworker should have no trouble cutting off the damaged wood leaving a clean line to glue to. And anybody restoring furniture will have a stock of old oak to match in fine. Those bases usually have joins in them anyway so another won't be noticed. A few biscuit joiners and glue the thing back together and no problem. The repro base would come in handy as a pattern to copy the size and shape and still be on-sold on this site afterwards.

[marktol]

Good Point,

I recently had to re-glue a hi top base. It was in three sections; glued and held together mainly by the two runners (batons) on the bottom and the sides, which are glued on. Not all bases are made out of three planks. Some are solid, but it should be a fairly simple job, as you say, to neaten off the existing and attach a new section to replace the missing broken part.

That would then hopefully save the need to mess around with the handle pump and the base plate, which would make it a much more tricky job, as Paul pointed out previously.

Mark.

[timosix]

Hiya,

You guys are frightening the life out of me. I didn't think replacing the base would be that bad. The new one is routed out where the old sides need to fit so I just need to loosely fit them on then make sure the back door is at 90 degrees. Fit the front metal parts of the cabinet and mark where the apron is going in.

I suppose I need to make sure the sides are positioned so the handle is in the correct position?

I doesn't seem that bad. Please wise coin machine gurus, what am I missing....?

Old and new base:

Old base broken off:

[arrgee]

Neat base job, timosix.

ps........ 4 across is 'used car'

[timosix]

Any ideas how to make a tool to fit into the external handle collar (4 small holes) to unscrew it? I was thinking of using a bit of hardwood and panel pins across two of the holes to make a lever. Any better ideas that don't involve welding?

Anyone has experience of matching the new and old parts of the wooden cabinet. I was going to wait till I sanded it down till I pondered that one but any guidance would be good.

Thanks.

[widget2k4]

Don't do what I did, I tried a hammer and punch but went the wrong way and burst it.
It's a left hand thread, as I discovered the hard way. lol

Maybe could get it with say two nails in opposite holes and put a bar in between them and lever against each other? Never tried it, but just a thought?

[aristomatic]

Bandit Handle Collar Extraction Tool

Sega Bonanza help needed please

Gameswat's advice on not doing anything until you are sure that you want to repaint or rechrome or remodel is, I believe, sound advice, but it's your machine, so do what you feel most comfortable with as you are likely to have additional information that we are not privy to, e.g. where it's likely to be situated, what other pieces are around it, whether they are original or refurbed etc.

I also believe strongly that you should let these threads develop before jumping in on either my or someone else's individual input.

Use the search facility too, there's loads more info there, and you can see how some threads develop and offer alternate options etc.
It's nearly always better to have more info, then base your decision on all of that info and relate it to your own circumstances and also your own skill-set and financial state of play.

I have above added some links, which you may have already read, but just in case you hadn't had the time to browse through. There's plenty more info too.

GP

[timosix]

Thanks for all the advice and input. Those jeweller's peg clamps are just the job aren't they. I am going to persevere with the base being replaced. I will see how it pans out (bit of a challenge for me).

Could my machine really be as early as 1958?

[coppinpr]

Could my machine really be as early as 1958?

No reason why not.

Early Sega slot machines
The production of early Sega slot machines lasted roughly from 1952 to the mid-1960s and encompassed dozens of models. In 1952, when the United States outlawed slot machines, Martin Bromley saw the emerging Japanese market as an opportunity for gaming. He purchased slot machines from the government, and set up a company to import them to Japan

From the "SegaRetro" site.

[badpenny]

Wow I am amazed with the photo of the date trickery

I learnt the photo of the date trickery years ago when I was a Human Resources Manager in industry and had a visit from the Traffic Police. One of our company cars had been Gatso'ed speeding. We weren't denying it was one of ours as it had the company name written all over it. We did need though to identify which one in order to name the driver. The registration was illegible. They simply produced a Black & White version in negative.
The contrast was enough to narrow it down.
It takes a bit of fiddling about with.

Yours was particularly tricky as the original date was very faded.

BP

[aristomatic]

With reference to the base, firstly, I have never replaced a base; have always sold machines on to others who have greater skill-set in that area, to achieve better than I could ever do...
You may well have thought about this option and rejected it or, if you haven't, then others may well chip in with far simpler or more practical solutions, of course, but just trying to think of simple options that may give you more confidence before trying to complete whole permanent job in one go. that's all.

Maybe, once the original base is removed, you could temporarily place the sides into the new base and then just use the x4 long carriage bolts to secure the baseplate and bolt the two front castings into place to give it some rigidity. Then you would be able to place the mechanism in and ensure that the jackpot is in correct position to the mechanism behind etc. and mark all positions once you are happy that all pieces are in correct position? You could unscrew the long carriage bolts and reposition the baseplate etc. until you are happy on alignment. Once you are happy that all pieces are in alignment, then after marking discreetly the appropriate positions, you could disassemble and then reassemble the cabinet on a permanent basis with appropriate adhesives and runners below etc.

Just a thought - as I said, others who have actually done the job may well chip in with more relevant hands-on experience of this particular job. Anyway, you confirmed that you are going to replace the base, so best of luck on it. Hopefully it will go smoother than anticipated.

Any other questions - just shout.

GP

[timosix]

To remove the main handle bush from the cabinet, I found that two allen keys wedged in two of the holes and an extenstion bar between the two, worked a treat (I was surprised how stable this was).

IMP - It's a reverse thread, so clockwise to undo!

[widget2k4]

Yep, that's what I said when I mentioned using nails or similar with a bar between them.

[marktol]

Interesting.

I've not come across a treaded one before. All the machines I've done have had three screws on the inside which you remove and the hub just drops out.

That's a useful tip if I get a machine that doesn't have that!

[aristomatic]

Nice tip, glad it worked for you this time.

Remember, of course, it may or may not work on the next machine!
I took the handle ball off a handle rod the other day, just unscrewed by hand - no problem. Tried another, no chance, so popped the handle ball in hot water in the sink and 'bingo', it unscrewed by hand x 5 mins later.
The third one's still in the sink with the ball still attached.... two days later...........................


GP