Re: New member, Space Flight Beromat
Thanks coppinpr , thanks for help , the reels 1 and 3 are very poor and damaged . I like things to be original but sometimes its beyond redemption . I thought I could photocopy the "good " reel and glue back on ? I will post photos tomorrow of break and look forward to any tips . What is best way to work with Formica in terms of buying and cutting ? Bear with me chaps as I am a bit naïve but happy to listen to experience . Will post pics tomorrow on Q & A forum . T
Re: New member, Space Flight Beromat
Hey matey ......
I don't think anybody could criticise you for turning to repro reel strips.
After all it's a machine that is nothing like how it left the Günther Wulf factory years before man started launching space rockets.
As you say, the case is shot and you're thinking of using a piece of Ash to replace the bottom board.
Well done you I'd say.
And don't think for a minute you paid a silly price for it.
You wanted it, so you bought it, end of conversation.
I considered it, as I have cousins who live in Paignton, but I couldn't remember if I owed them money or not. The deciding factor was when I saw loose bit of mech in the bottom corner of the mech. I've already prayed many times at the altar of The Mighty Mazak Moth. So didn't really fancy doing that again, just yet. Hence the repeated requests for photos.
I suspect you'll find it difficult to replace without buying a donor machine that has a decent case mounted handle assembly. You might be able to pin it as well as chemically weld it back.
That particular part takes a lot of stress, so may be tricky.
BP
I don't think anybody could criticise you for turning to repro reel strips.
After all it's a machine that is nothing like how it left the Günther Wulf factory years before man started launching space rockets.
As you say, the case is shot and you're thinking of using a piece of Ash to replace the bottom board.
Well done you I'd say.
And don't think for a minute you paid a silly price for it.
You wanted it, so you bought it, end of conversation.
I considered it, as I have cousins who live in Paignton, but I couldn't remember if I owed them money or not. The deciding factor was when I saw loose bit of mech in the bottom corner of the mech. I've already prayed many times at the altar of The Mighty Mazak Moth. So didn't really fancy doing that again, just yet. Hence the repeated requests for photos.
I suspect you'll find it difficult to replace without buying a donor machine that has a decent case mounted handle assembly. You might be able to pin it as well as chemically weld it back.
That particular part takes a lot of stress, so may be tricky.
BP
Re: New member, Space Flight Beromat
My game was also suffering pot metal cancer, just to one of the two vertical side frames that hold the mech. But didn't find this until the next day!
I'd purchased it amongst a small collection of UK games from an old time restorer in the US. Went back to see him the next day and he stumbled off for a few mins and came back with a spare mech that he gave me. 


Beromat Space Flight
Topic merged - Site Admin.
Hello, attached pictures as requested. Thanks for recent post badpenny and I think you are right. The difference was that I thought the bit in the corner was the lock of the back!! To update members looking at this post, just bought my first machine on ebay for £187 - a Space Flight Beromat. Case is full of woodworm and arm mech is busted as per pics. Still happy with purchase, a project, but happy with price paid and everything else including front castings are okay. My questions are as follows: Can this arm mech be repaired? What tips does anyone have regards making a new cabinet, using the old one as a template? What problems will I face using Formica? Is it feasible to photocopy the one good reel I have on a home copier with standard paper? Any tips, help or advice would be appreciated. I have an ad on Wanted for a replacement arm mech as I think the pot metal fatigue is beyond effective repair, but will have to see what members think. I am on a steep learning curve but don't have buyer's remorse and love the quirky look of this space machine that is pre Apollo! Bought it from a nice chap in Bideford but what a place to get to, took me 90 mins to do 60 miles!! Look forward to any replies. T
Hello, attached pictures as requested. Thanks for recent post badpenny and I think you are right. The difference was that I thought the bit in the corner was the lock of the back!! To update members looking at this post, just bought my first machine on ebay for £187 - a Space Flight Beromat. Case is full of woodworm and arm mech is busted as per pics. Still happy with purchase, a project, but happy with price paid and everything else including front castings are okay. My questions are as follows: Can this arm mech be repaired? What tips does anyone have regards making a new cabinet, using the old one as a template? What problems will I face using Formica? Is it feasible to photocopy the one good reel I have on a home copier with standard paper? Any tips, help or advice would be appreciated. I have an ad on Wanted for a replacement arm mech as I think the pot metal fatigue is beyond effective repair, but will have to see what members think. I am on a steep learning curve but don't have buyer's remorse and love the quirky look of this space machine that is pre Apollo! Bought it from a nice chap in Bideford but what a place to get to, took me 90 mins to do 60 miles!! Look forward to any replies. T
Re: Beromat Space Flight
Main thing is, in the end, you must get the machine running, it's a crime not to
Making a case from scratch using the old one as a template is not that hard. I've just done a case for a similar Wulff mech, although it was a totally different style of case. This was my first attempt at a scratch built case. I very enjoyed doing it and it worked out fine (now this one REALLY had woodworm).
Your case has some advantages over others, as the corners are square, not rounded, and the whole thing is covered with Formica which can hide a multitude of sins. If I remember correctly the front case is the wider of the two so make that first and match the rear part to that. Keep all sizes exact and mark the position of EVERY hole in the case. If the handle unit is recessed into the Formica that will be the hardest part as it will need to line up exactly with the position of the mech inside.
Formica is available in rolls on ebay, in different colours. True Formica is not that cheap. On youtube there are good videos of how to use it.
No reason why you can't photo copy the good reel strip BUT things you might not be aware of are... each of the reel strips is different. On this type of machine the strips are stuck on, not crimped as usual, so they MUST go back on in the same position as they came off.... You would be better using photo paper than plain paper ... the end result of a scanned strip will not be perfect.
I think someone will have that part, no problem (Treefrog will have a container full, he just won't know where it is). When you take the handle unit apart, clean it well. The old grease is what puts extra stress on these units. Don't forget they were built to have a life of three years only and here we are 70 years on!! The cracks in the part shown in photo three may not be a problem - it's not a moving part so metal epoxy pushed into the cracks should seal it up OK.
Main thing to remember is we will always help... it's what we do on this site

Making a case from scratch using the old one as a template is not that hard. I've just done a case for a similar Wulff mech, although it was a totally different style of case. This was my first attempt at a scratch built case. I very enjoyed doing it and it worked out fine (now this one REALLY had woodworm).
Your case has some advantages over others, as the corners are square, not rounded, and the whole thing is covered with Formica which can hide a multitude of sins. If I remember correctly the front case is the wider of the two so make that first and match the rear part to that. Keep all sizes exact and mark the position of EVERY hole in the case. If the handle unit is recessed into the Formica that will be the hardest part as it will need to line up exactly with the position of the mech inside.
Formica is available in rolls on ebay, in different colours. True Formica is not that cheap. On youtube there are good videos of how to use it.
No reason why you can't photo copy the good reel strip BUT things you might not be aware of are... each of the reel strips is different. On this type of machine the strips are stuck on, not crimped as usual, so they MUST go back on in the same position as they came off.... You would be better using photo paper than plain paper ... the end result of a scanned strip will not be perfect.
I think someone will have that part, no problem (Treefrog will have a container full, he just won't know where it is). When you take the handle unit apart, clean it well. The old grease is what puts extra stress on these units. Don't forget they were built to have a life of three years only and here we are 70 years on!! The cracks in the part shown in photo three may not be a problem - it's not a moving part so metal epoxy pushed into the cracks should seal it up OK.
Main thing to remember is we will always help... it's what we do on this site

Re: Beromat Space Flight
It's strange that it should have snapped just there. As although it's a part that moves freely it would only be under strain if someone were to try and pull the arm back up before completing a pull. The strain put on the pawl under those conditions would have been transferred to the pinion where it has sheared.
Make sure movement between the pawl and it's axle/pinion is friction free and then epoxy the casting back into place.
Try using a syringe on the other cracks (not a hypodermic) and give it a few coats of looking at.
The problem with photocopying original paperwork is that although it matches and measures up well on the screen, by the time you print it off the size is always different.
BP
Make sure movement between the pawl and it's axle/pinion is friction free and then epoxy the casting back into place.
Try using a syringe on the other cracks (not a hypodermic) and give it a few coats of looking at.
The problem with photocopying original paperwork is that although it matches and measures up well on the screen, by the time you print it off the size is always different.
BP
SPACE FLIGHT ARM MECH PICTURES
Topic merged - Site Admin.
Hello again. See attached pictures detailing total failure of my Space Flight Beromat arm mech. Dismantling to attempt repair on broken pawl and whilst removing circlip it just disintegrated. First picture shows the spring pulling metal out of true and the pot metal just fell apart. My question is do members agree with me and think this is beyond any form of usable repair? What to do next?? Hoping somebody has a serviceable Beromat arm mech they could sell me. On my first post it was mentioned that some might be kicking around and I would be grateful for any assistance. If I can't find the part I will consider a trade for a working less desirable Beromat or fruit machine but ideally would like to get this one up and running. Regards Tony
Hello again. See attached pictures detailing total failure of my Space Flight Beromat arm mech. Dismantling to attempt repair on broken pawl and whilst removing circlip it just disintegrated. First picture shows the spring pulling metal out of true and the pot metal just fell apart. My question is do members agree with me and think this is beyond any form of usable repair? What to do next?? Hoping somebody has a serviceable Beromat arm mech they could sell me. On my first post it was mentioned that some might be kicking around and I would be grateful for any assistance. If I can't find the part I will consider a trade for a working less desirable Beromat or fruit machine but ideally would like to get this one up and running. Regards Tony
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Re: Space Flight Beromat
To answer a few of your questions Tony, no I don't think your part is salvageable but, as others have said, there are enough Beromat 'junkers' around to supply the bits you need, so don't give up on it yet. (There are many Wulff bandits where the cabinet has disintegrated, but the mechanism is in good shape). That said, it usually requires persistence and patience to wangle spares off other collectors who're more focussed on finding the bits they need. I can speak with confidence, because I found a spare Wulff handle kit for my Space Flight after I'd owned the thing about three years. Unusually it has a metal knob on the end, which vaguely resembles Sputnik.
By the way, the Space Flight is a British re-fit of a Wulff bandit, presumably made around 1958 (post Sputnik launch). My favourite is the wood veneer & copper look (first picture, third post).
By the way, the Space Flight is a British re-fit of a Wulff bandit, presumably made around 1958 (post Sputnik launch). My favourite is the wood veneer & copper look (first picture, third post).
Re: Space Flight Beromat
It is junk, not only has it broken, cracked and in parts delaminated, but the largest part of the casting that remains has twisted.
Re: Space Flight Beromat
Have boxes of beromat spares, but found a complete side in the shed, but had mazac attack. Found another below in the garden under a bush, that appears not to, but will need a lot of lube to free up.
So moral of the story, keep your bandits in the garden.
So moral of the story, keep your bandits in the garden.
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