FORUM

Oh yes, regarding AC and DC, this machine only uses AC , there are no rectifiers in the machine

Can we see a photo of this machine just for the hell of it

Adding to my post above concerning the voltage of said solenoid. I imagine the voltage is quite low like 6 - 12V AC.
I say this because in the mid 80s I had a Sega Sailor which is the same sort of thing.
Plugging it in would switch it onto free play.
Much scrutinising eventually convinced me somebody had changed the laws of physics overnight.
The evidence was ......
Unplugged, handle was locked, insert coin nothing happened (of course).
Plug it in, lights would come on and handle would free up even though no coin had been inserted.

The coin micro switch which was part of the circuit which included the solenoid that freed the arm was a totally different one to the lights circuit which was 240 voltage AC.
The short story is that the two different wirings went close to each other at one point. The AC current for the lighting was inducting a voltage across to the other. Although the induced voltage was low it was just strong enough to energise the solenoid sufficiently to free the handle.

Lesson: - wiring shouldn't be located alongside other wiring without ignoring the likely hood of induction..

Oh dear.........I think I should let someone else take over here.
But if electro-magnetic induction were that simple, we wouldn't need transformers.

I'm glad you finally agree

Electromagnetic induction is simple - without it we couldn't have transformers
But you would have to have some pretty strange wiring in a bandit cabinet to induce sufficient voltage to operate a solenoid. Notice any large coils of wire? I'd think a resistive short is more probable.

Would love to add photos but can't work out how to do it on this mac

Are you saying this ............

In which case I whole heartedly agree, where can we get some made up?

I guess it's my poor linguistic abilities that are fouling up this exploration.
The facts are simply as I described in my earlier post.
Two circuits running parallel, one for the lights, the other for the handle release and I guess both different voltages.
Plugging it in put the lights on and also activated the solenoid just enough to engage free play.
After I rerouted the solenoid wire away from the illumination circuit so at no point were they sharing the same retaining clip the problem was solved.
So what is that called? Is it "electromagnetic induction" is it "resistive short".

Is it possible the OP's solenoid burnt out at some point because of it?
Have others experienced anything similar?
Is this something that co-axial cable would help/hinder/nothing to do with it at all?
Would the static build up of bri-nylon socks play a part?
Who remembers Brentford Nylons advert on TV?

BP

This is all very interesting my solenoid cable is knowhere near the lighting cable, I have had problems with noise being induced on my hi fi when cables are run together but would have thought that there would not be enough current induced to operate a coil, even slightly, but hey , I have been wrong before , as She who must be obeyed knows.
Getting back to my original post, I still need a solenoid for this machine, is there anyone who could sell me one or give me the part number so I could identify this coil.

Oh yes, I think 'capacitive coupling' rather than 'resistive short' would be my explanation.

I like a bit of "captive coupling" on the right day

coppinpr wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2017 6:39 pm I like a bit of "captive coupling" on the right day

Is that not just another name for 'marriage'?

By the way, I have absolutely no knowledge of the electrickery stuff, so am unable to provide constructive comment. My apologies to radiochrissie. I hope you find the part you need.

I think it is called 'bad luck' BP.
Could the insulation have split or chafed around the retaining clip perhaps? Switch it on and run your tongue along the wires. I'm sure if there is a fault you will soon find it.
(Capacitive coupling wouldn't provide the power - the solenoid would soon drain it)

Good god, All I can taste now is metal, it certainly cleans your tongue up
As I have said previously, my solenoid is no more, it has ceased to be, all I need is someone to help me find a replacement or give me the part number that is written on the coil sleeve.

Sega Windsor now fixed !
As I was not able to ascertain the correct solenoid I made my own
The original solenoid coil had gone short circuit due to overheating and measured just 0.4 ohms, to find out the correct resistance I carefully unwound the coil, which was 77 metres in length. I then measures the resistance which was approx 12 ohms.
The dropper resistor in the machine,which is in line with the solenoid coil, was measured at 24 ohms.
I now know the total resistance across the 30v supply is 36 ohms so using ohms law i know that the current in this circuit is 833 mA. Then using V=IxR I know that the voltage across the solenoid coil is 10v. So I then obtained some 26 swg enamelled copper wire and rewound the coil using approx 77 metres. When I measured the rewound coil it was about 11 ohms Here is a picture of the new working coil.

Well I understood completely the whole of the

.......................................... first line....................!

As for the rest, well done (whatever you did......)

and you did it all with the machine upside down
Images now flipped - Site Admin.

I beat you Aristo....I managed one and a half lines and the v= i x r bit from physics lessons 100 years ago. Well done Radiochrissie on a great result,enjoy.