Bryan’s clock face
Bryan’s clock face
What do people usually do for their machines regarding replacement back flashes etc? Do you print it on good quality paper/card? Laminate it ?
I have downloaded the 12 win clockface from resources.
All advice welcome.
I have downloaded the 12 win clockface from resources.
All advice welcome.
- badpenny
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Re: Bryan’s clock face
I use best quality paper, number of pixels, high definition etc.
If it's going on the outside of the machine like an instruction panel I either laminate or cut an OHP acetate to fit.
Behind glass I laminate if there's going to be contact with a moving part like a ball. Otherwise I wouldn't.
BP
If it's going on the outside of the machine like an instruction panel I either laminate or cut an OHP acetate to fit.
Behind glass I laminate if there's going to be contact with a moving part like a ball. Otherwise I wouldn't.
BP
Re: Bryan’s clock face
My wonders machines all seemed to have a sheet of thickish acetate covering the cardboard printed backflash. On the ones I had to reprint I just printed on a thickish quality paper and then sourced some 440 micron acetate to the replace as the old stuff was very yellowed. I used large hole punches and a big hammer on a sheet of scrap ply to cut the acetate for the ball holes - did a really clean job.
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Re: Bryan’s clock face
For the Clock face, whenever possible I would much prefer to keep the letterpress printed original, complete with blemishes, foxing, rust spots etc. Otherwise I would get a high resolution laser print, on thickish paper, from a high street print shop (they still exist) and use as is, because these were never laminated. You could protect it with a matt fixative (art varnish) spray.
Wonders flashes are great because, as Geoff says, they can be miraculously revived by cleaning the paper up a bit and replacing the acetate with UV-filtered plastic to protect the print from further fading.
Wonders flashes are great because, as Geoff says, they can be miraculously revived by cleaning the paper up a bit and replacing the acetate with UV-filtered plastic to protect the print from further fading.
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