Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

American, British, French or German? We want to know about it.
User avatar
special when lit
Posts: 496
Joined: Fri Dec 17, 2004 4:46 pm
Reaction score: 2
Location: Derby

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by special when lit »

This just popped up on one of the Facebook groups.
Wonder who copied who?
Attachments
131642177_10217084162087723_5018686554984134417_n.jpg
electrodart-glass.jpg
User avatar
treefrog
Posts: 4813
Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2008 2:46 pm
Reaction score: 31
Location: Suffolk

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by treefrog »

Very interesting........given darts is more popular in U.K., I would assume clipped from Jamieson’s
User avatar
coppinpr
Posts: 5111
Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2010 2:01 pm
Reaction score: 20
Location: Lewes, East Sussex
Contact:

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by coppinpr »

Jamieson's were surprisingly big on selling abroad and exhibited at several trade shows in the USA including Atlanta (just down the road from South Carolina ) they also made regular sales trips to New Jersey so their machines were quite well known in the US, perhaps they simply sold the design under licence?

At first glance, the glass looks different from the Jamieson but in fact, it's exactly the same, just squeezed and stretched in places and with different text.
pennymachines
Site Admin
Posts: 6638
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 12:12 am
Reaction score: 56
Location: The Black Country

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by pennymachines »

Unlike Jamieson's wall-mounted Electrodart, the Star Amusement Company of Columbia's Hi Lo is a trade stimulator. As such, it has no automatic payout and appears to be a counter-top game, similar to other products the company made.
Attachments
Stars.jpg
Potless
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:07 pm
Reaction score: 0

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

I have a Roto-Pool in for repair (the 2D-4D-6D payout version), and have got it working again by re-soldering some bad joints, cleaning all the contacts and switches, replacing bulbs and cleaning the sockets, etc. It now works well, with one exception - the payouts are rather strange.

I get payouts for some weird display combinations, e.g, 1-2-1 pays 2p, 2-1-1 pays 2p, 1-1-2 pays 2p for example. I suspect that the display lamps are showing one or two lights ahead (or is it behind?) the correct sequence.

The thing that makes it strange is the fact that some payouts are perfectly fine, e.g. 1-2-X, X-1-2, or X-X-X at the top of the display.

Could this mean that the display uniselector needs adjusting, and if so, which adjustment is needed?

Thanks in advance for any advice!
User avatar
slotalot
Posts: 2051
Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:53 pm
Reaction score: 10
Location: Halifax West Yorkshire
Contact:

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by slotalot »

These machines are fixed pay out, not random. When you put a coin into the machine the left hand uni steps forwards 1 place. At this point the machine knows if it is going to be a win or a lose game. When you press the start button, the right hand uni rotates; when you take your finger off the button the right hand uni runs on slightly looking for the next pre programmed stop contact, be it win or lose. This happens so fast you don't see the over run happening. I think the right hand uni is missing some of the stop contacts and running past the pre programmed stop point. I would be looking again at the condition of the right hand uni wipers and pads. :!?!:
Potless
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:07 pm
Reaction score: 0

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

Ah - interesting point, I will check it out - thanks.
Potless
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:07 pm
Reaction score: 0

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »


aa.jpg

After much cleaning and some re-soldering of bad joints, I now have the Roto-Pool machine working well - BUT, one thing has stopped me crossing the finishing line - a blue wire has broken off the right-hand uniselector, and I have absolutely no idea where it should connect to (see photo). The wire is connected to the blue wires that are linked together on the 2nd set of contacts in (the first set of contacts you can see has not been used). The only problem it has caused is a failure of the display lamps to advance one position after payout.

There do not seem to be any obvious points on the solder tags where traces of stranded wire can be seen to have broken off.

My model pays 2d, 4d and 6d, but the standard diagram shows payouts of 3d, 6d and 12d, and the wiring of the RH uniselector seems to be totally different.

If anyone can throw some light onto the problem, I would be very grateful!

P.S. The wire is not long enough to reach the left-hand uniselector, so it must attach somewhere to its right.
Attachments
ba.jpg
User avatar
coppinpr
Posts: 5111
Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2010 2:01 pm
Reaction score: 20
Location: Lewes, East Sussex
Contact:

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by coppinpr »

this is only a visual observation made from looking at just that one photo, but it would seem the other blue wires act as links between the solder tags, with this in mind I can see no blue wire connected to the very first tag (bottom left) yet the tag looks half empty as if its lost something ( if the original solder joint was a bit dry it may well have separated much later in life taking all the solder with it,and the length of the blue wire looks about right, as I said I'm no electrician and this is just a visual observation. :shock:
Potless
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:07 pm
Reaction score: 0

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

Hi coppinpr,
Thanks for your suggestion - I did try connecting the wire to that tag, but it made no difference - that's why the solder looks so fresh. Also, the blue wire, when connected to that tag, is very much longer than the other linking blue wires, which makes me think it belongs somewhere in the other direction (to the right).

Well, at least we can eliminate that tag from our enquiries!

I have added another photo, showing a different angle. The loose wire can be seen attached to the other linking blue wire, third tag up, second row in.

close-up.jpg

Potless
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:07 pm
Reaction score: 0

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

A quick update - the blue wire COULD reach across to the left hand uniselector (when they are mounted to the back board of the case) - but where it connects to is still a mystery!
garythegolfer
Posts: 43
Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 8:54 pm
Reaction score: 0
Location: Essex

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by garythegolfer »

There is a MK 2 wiring diagram here published by "Slotalot" which should help:
download/file.php?id=2559
The Roto-Pool Manual
Potless
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:07 pm
Reaction score: 0

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

Thanks, I did study it before, but will check again in case I missed anything.
Potless
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:07 pm
Reaction score: 0

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

Having checked the 1st and 2nd versions of the manuals, it seems to me that the model I have has a rather different wiring design to those shown. Nothing seems to tally with the expected wiring connections - so maybe this is a variant that was made in the factory, or it has been modified somewhat (although there is not much evidence of rewires, etc). Oh well, I will have to delve deeper!
User avatar
badpenny
Forum Moderator
Posts: 7212
Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 12:41 pm
Reaction score: 25
Location: East Midlands

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by badpenny »

I'd hazard a guess that it was wired to suit the selector they had at the time.

BP :!?!:
User avatar
brigham
Posts: 1180
Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2017 3:37 pm
Reaction score: 2

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by brigham »

I'll second that!
Potless
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:07 pm
Reaction score: 0

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

OK - mystery solved - it didn't occur ro me that the blue wire actually connects to the blue wire feeding uniselector 2's solenoid coil, hence its length. I had assumed that the wire needed to be connected to uniselector 1 as in the diagrams, but in this case, not so.

Another one for the unusual variations file!
Potless
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:07 pm
Reaction score: 0

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

Roto-Games Time-Delay Relay Problem Solved (?)

I have just repaired an Electrodart machine that has been in storage for years, waiting for a replacement time delay relay (the troublesome and rare "cutout" that so often burns out).

I am happy to say that my machine is now working, using a different type of time delay relay that nobody seems to have discovered before – an Amperite 26C2T, which looks just like a valve, but in fact is just a bi-metal strip and separate heater element in a glass envelope. My Electrodart has a dc supply of around 26 volts, and the relay is rated at 22-30V - it works like a dream. It gives a delay time of 2 seconds, which is quite adequate if you don’t want to drive the rest of the household crazy with the ringing of the bell (I couldn't find any with delays of less than this). The photo shows the unit installed in my machine, and held in place with a jubilee clip. These things are built like brick outhouses, and should be a lot less prone to burnout than the original GPO units.

For those who have nearer to 50V dc supplies, you may be able to find a 50C2T type (9-pin), or 50C2 octal type, both of which operate on 42-58V, although these seem a lot less plentiful than the type I used. Note that a normally-closed contact type is required (the ”C" in the middle of the type number denotes this).

Note that these units are available with octal valve pinouts, and standard 9-pin valve pinouts (the latter being most common). The attached data sheet (see bottom of post) shows the variants available (although these are now obsolete, but new old stock should be discoverable on the net). The last letter in the code denotes the type (blank for octal, T for 9-pin).

You will of course need a suitable valve base for soldering the wires to, as the glass envelope could break if the pins are soldered to directly. You can get these on eBay, or anywhere that sells valve accessories.

I only replaced the relay that times the bell ring, and didn't bother to get one for the pushbutton timing circuit, but I may do at a later date. The one I got cost me £11.98 including postage/packing. The valve base was £2.54 with post.
Attachments
amperite.jpg
amperite td relays.pdf
(422.08 KiB) Downloaded 151 times
User avatar
special when lit
Posts: 496
Joined: Fri Dec 17, 2004 4:46 pm
Reaction score: 2
Location: Derby

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by special when lit »

Good solution, Potless. As someone with 3 'flasher' type machines, that's good to know.
oneswitch500
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2017 5:38 pm
Reaction score: 0

Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by oneswitch500 »

Very promising fix. This is the thing wrong with my Electro-Dart. Mine runs at 32v DC. Would you recommend putting an extra resistor in, or might this not work, would you predict?
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 19 guests