Nestle Win a Choc

[polaris]

Picked up another resto that I may get 'round to, if I ever grow another pair of arms. Bought the first one of this type of machine a couple of months ago (on another post), so a steep learning curve ahead. Would it appear to be complete, other than the obvious trigger missing? Or have I bought a basket case?

Pic with trigger missing. See one in the Market. Would it be compatible with this machine?

[jimmy55]

Backflash looks in good condition ...makes a nice change.

[polaris]

I think, on closer inspection Jimmy, not so good. There's some artwork here in Resources which is very good. I may have a new one made. The flash in the top window is also in bad shape. It appears to be printed on clear plastic which flakes off when touched, so it needs to be done also. I think this will keep me going over the winter months.

[jimmy55]

If you decide to whip the backflash off, send me a PM and I can always scan it in like John's Win A Penguin.

I've yet to find the right media for printing on a translucent film, but I've got a few ideas. Give me a shout if you need any help. Looks like a nice image.

[treefrog]

There already is artwork for this in the Resources
Win a Nestlé's flashes

I assume the flicker in the Market is a Nostalgic one and may well work or be adapted. I am sure I remember someone suggesting these were similar to Olly Whales machines. Also JC's site may have an original, as I know he had a few OW spares there.... Looks a good project though.

[coppinpr]

I've yet to find the right media for printing on a translucent film, but I've got a few ideas

I don't know if would work, but have you tried Letraset "safmat" adhesive printing film? It works on Laser and IJ printers. I use 8 * 10, but I believe they do bigger sizes.

[polaris]

Thanks for the offer Jimmy. I may yet take you up on it. I know nothing about printing, but my initial idea was to have a new one printed and laminated? The first thing is the cabinet resto. I will start to scan the internet for info on wood restoration, as other than the obvious sanding, I would not know where to begin. The mech is also rusted solid, so a lot of hours ahead with the Dremel.

[treefrog]

For reference JC's site is http://www.allwinspares.co.uk/

I could not see an OW trigger there, but you will see two types of Nostalgic ones.... One is a set like the one in the Market and just a trigger with a 10mm barrel. The question is, do you have the hammer? If not, it may be worthwhile going for the kit. JC should be able to confirm if these will fit an OW machine or someone else on the Forum may know and will be able to confirm. I would have thought it would....

[jimmy55]

Thanks Paul, I'll look out for that film. I can try on both types of printer. White is always the problem, as they don't have white ink, so it would have to be sprayed on the transparent background area somehow.

Give me a shout any time Polaris. For Johns 'Penguin' we printed on a photo matt paper and I heat-sealed it front and back, which seems to work. Ideal for the opaque area.

[arrgee]

Hi polaris, Classicgambler has a complete trigger assembly for sale in The Market section of this website

[polaris]

Hi, thanks for that.
I'm still trying to confirm this would be compatible with this machine (any info appreciated). Also, if possible, I would like to keep as many original parts, so I may get away separate with the hammer and trigger which, for the time being, are available on the allwin spares website kindly submitted by treefrog. I will make decision soon. Thanks again.
Regards,
Billy.

[treefrog]

Unfortunately, it is all too easy to forget the question asked by people, but I would ping JC a question through his website and he will respond to you with the right answer on the Nostalgic parts compatibility (busy season for him in his arcade, so you may have to wait), unless anyone comes back earlier.... Based on your response, the hammer is all there, so just the trigger would be all that's needed, so cheaper....

In terms of the backflash, someone had stated it looked good... If it has not warped too much and is flat, with only a few small splits as seen in pictures, I would leave as is, e.g. keep it original... If badly warped, affecting play, then there's no choice but to change it, but it does not look that way...

As for the cabinet, I would have thought stripping back to wood, refinishing and varnishing would make it look a million dollars. I suspect, looking at the condition, this would be the best option....

[polaris]

Thanks again treefrog,
I took your advice and, as it turns out, messaged Jerry and he has all the parts I need. Resto well under way and a bigger job than first thought - absolute nightmare, all screws rusty and large majority snapped in backboard, so will have a job there trying to drill them out. Another problem I will have is spring sizes, as they are all perished so there is nothing to take reference from. Perhaps someone can advise? A few more parts to clean up and I will tackle the cabinet which, again, is in bad shape.

[polaris]

I've removed the last few parts and am now thinking that, because all screws and cotter pins etc. have snapped off in the backboard due to them being rusty, I will fashion a new backboard. I would think it's easy enough to cut the shape from a piece of 18mm ply, but obviously a lot of components to attach, and would need to line up. Has anyone had any experience in doing this who can offer suggestions?

[jonesthegarage]

Never done it, but would start by tracing around all parts on the existing backboard in pencil and perhaps marking a few key measurement points, then you'll at least have a template to work from. Good luck and remember the old carpenter's maxim, measure twice, cut once.

[gameswat]

Hey Polaris, I lay either clear plastic sheet or tracing paper over the top and tape it down, depending on the particular job, I'd use plastic for this. Then mark out every single thing you can with an indelible pen, or jab with a prison shiv if that way inclined, I'd use a shiv for this job to show the machine who's boss. Include all the edges for exact registration. Then just lay it over the new wood and drill away.

By the way before stripping down did you soak the rusty bolts with a penetrating oil like Penetrine? Makes all the difference in the world. Plus some heat from a torch also helps to break the rust bonds. I've got projects that appear to have gone down with ships at Pearl Harbour that have come apart with a little effort. Hardest part to restore is those damn bolts with shoulders (that allow parts to freely move back and forth). Can't tell you how many of those I've made over the years. But thanks to ebay I've now built up a container with about 500 of the little suckers to suit just about any job!

[badpenny]

Don't do it.

There's no rot, no woodworm, no need.

Just replace the missing screws etc. by replacing them alongside the originals.

As for springs, buy a box of various assorted ones from Machine Mart or Screwfix then settle down for an enjoyable session of trial and error.

The only one I've ever found to be tension critical is when they fit a spring to return the ball release lever. As it needs to be strong enough to raise the lever after the ball has passed through yet not so strong that the coin can't fight it.

Having said that many of those are balanced so they don't need a spring so just ignore me.

BP

edited to add
If it's design critical to place a new screw in an existing broken one, then gouge out the wood until you have reached the broken one (you can always fill with any number of man made fillers available) Apply heat from a soldering iron to the screw and use Mole Grips to lock on to the protruding end and Tighten it first before undoing it.

[polaris]

I like the plastic idea, gameswat. I think it would be the way to go. I've not totally dismissed the idea, but BP may have a point, so on hold for the moment. The problem with the machine is it's spent its life in a damp shed, so it really was worse than it first looked. I don't think there's an option with mole-grips, BP, as the screws snapped at the shank leaving all the threaded part in the board. The same with cotter pins which hold the ball rails in place, so back to the drawing board for now. I'm starting to think I should have left it as habitat for wildlife.

[slotalot]

starting to think I should have left as habitat for wildlife.

That will be the Nestle Chocolate Mouse
Keep going and you will end up with a good machine

[gameswat]

BP, you're right about getting those old broken screw threads out when needs be. But after chewing the wood out as little as possible, usually many small drill holes around it, I drill a nice clean new bigger hole and then glue a matching wood dowel into the hole. And if you draw wide crosshairs for the original screw hole first, then drilling it back into place in the dowel is no problem. Usually not an issue unless things get a little wonky drilling the dowel hole, which sometimes happens.