Sega Mad Money Restoration
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
Damn it, see, I never know what will get me next. I went to look at the plunger, but ended up reviewing what I had left over. Many were damaged screws, washers etc, that had been replaced, so were of no concern, but several items, I do not recall ever removing. They ended up in a bag marked, unknown miscellaneous, expecting that I would find them, at some point, as it all went back together, but these didn't get used. No doubt I will now spend ages trying to work out where they should go, unless somebody can tell just by looking at them.
Can't tell you the thread size of the nuts, without checking, I will if it's needed, but I seem to have three nuts left over, which I have no recollection of ever removing. I haven't replaced these, because I never bought any nuts, and these are slightly bigger than most of the nuts and thread sizes used, for much of the case, so they must be needed.
The other item is two, slightly domed, chrome screws. A self tapper of sorts, perhaps. Maybe someone who is very familiar with these machines, can tell what these are at a glance, because otherwise, it will bug the heck out of me.
Any ideas chaps?
Oh, and whilst I'm here, I meant to post my insides the other day, so here it is.
Can't tell you the thread size of the nuts, without checking, I will if it's needed, but I seem to have three nuts left over, which I have no recollection of ever removing. I haven't replaced these, because I never bought any nuts, and these are slightly bigger than most of the nuts and thread sizes used, for much of the case, so they must be needed.
The other item is two, slightly domed, chrome screws. A self tapper of sorts, perhaps. Maybe someone who is very familiar with these machines, can tell what these are at a glance, because otherwise, it will bug the heck out of me.
Any ideas chaps?
Oh, and whilst I'm here, I meant to post my insides the other day, so here it is.
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
Ah, just pondering, because I can't just lay my hands on my original side panel bolts at the moment, but I bet those nuts are an odd few that should be in the bag with the original, rusty as hell, side panel bolts?
Still not thought of anything for the self tapper, ish, screws though.
Still not thought of anything for the self tapper, ish, screws though.
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
All clean, and given a gentle massage with Vaseline, as recommended. The seal, not me.
Thanks for the heads up.
Thanks for the heads up.
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
Got the door from treefrog today. Just needs a little touch up, a suitable lock, and all will be well.
Thanks very much for arranging it TF.
Thanks very much for arranging it TF.
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
lol, it's really leaning forward. I tipped the front into the well of the workbench, so the door would stay in place, without the lock, just to get a quick photo.
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
I've sandblasted my door, using a pressure washer and sand blaster attachment, which has worked adequately well, but I now have some areas where the surface is pitted, and I think too deep to sand them out, without overly thinning the metal. What method, or product, do you guys recommend to remove pitting, prior to repainting? Inside is much better, and will present no issue, plus of course it's inside anyway, but still, it's definitely good enough. Outside, I'm fairly sure I need to address the pitting, somehow?
And, whilst I'm at it, what is the correct finish for these doors. I have black gloss, and black hammer available. If black hammer was used, the pits would probably disappear, in the visual confusion of the actual finish, but I don't want to use it if it isn't the correct finish. Then again, if the correct finish is kind of unobtanium, then maybe it's the best alternative?
I be grateful if you'd let me know what your choices have been, in similar circumstances.
Thanks
Sutty
And, whilst I'm at it, what is the correct finish for these doors. I have black gloss, and black hammer available. If black hammer was used, the pits would probably disappear, in the visual confusion of the actual finish, but I don't want to use it if it isn't the correct finish. Then again, if the correct finish is kind of unobtanium, then maybe it's the best alternative?
I be grateful if you'd let me know what your choices have been, in similar circumstances.
Thanks
Sutty
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
The finish will be the same as you see on the inside. I have seen hammer, wrinkle and gloss finishes on Sega and Mills doors. You can fill with any car based filler products and sand back if needed
- badpenny
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Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
In the early 60s my Uncle would take delivery of Sega Bandits to his arcade in Paignton, at very strange times of the night from under a tarpaulin covering the back of a tipper truck.
The machines were painted in primer in order that the operator could paint them as they wished in their own colours (it was cheaper).
If he was part chopping out his current stock, he'd invariably retain the doors/locks and keys and just put them on the incoming machines. The new lockless doors being reassigned to the outgoing.
Those doors were bashed, tatty and painted by dipping a Badger's arse in whatever tin had a loose lid. It didn't matter, I was the only who saw the backs of the machines.
BP
The machines were painted in primer in order that the operator could paint them as they wished in their own colours (it was cheaper).
If he was part chopping out his current stock, he'd invariably retain the doors/locks and keys and just put them on the incoming machines. The new lockless doors being reassigned to the outgoing.
Those doors were bashed, tatty and painted by dipping a Badger's arse in whatever tin had a loose lid. It didn't matter, I was the only who saw the backs of the machines.
BP
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
Thanks treefrog. Kind of a plain satin black, in my judgment. Certainly not full gloss, but perhaps that's the age of the paint? Not full matt either though, so maybe satin would be a good choice. Then again, if you've seen hammer black before now, that sounds okay to me, unless you or anyone thinks I shouldn't?
By the way, I tried a cheap moon lock, and the one I chose would not go far enough away from the back of the door, to 'reach' forward enough into the machine, for the lock bar to clear into the recessed edge in the hood. All the bar did was press on the edge of the hood above the door, stopping the lock turning completely to remove the key. Really, for the lock I chose, the lock needed to go up into the rectangular slot in the door, between the two screw holes, but it was too wide to pass through.
In order to achieve this, I've had to cut the sides off the moon lock, and it now sits right up in the rectangle in the door, as opposed to behind it. I've made a rubber backed wooden spacer for behind it, to push it up into position, and using another piece of rubber, on top of it, I can clamp it down onto my spacer with the metal bracket. This allows me to squeeze it harder and harder, as required to make an interference fit between the lock bar and the back of the hood so that the door will be nice and tight.
I don't know how they should be fitted 'properly' but then again, I don't have a proper lock, so I have to make it work without adjusting the door or hood from original. For example, I could easily have filed the hood, but there was no way I was going to do that.
As for auto filler, I have some, so I'll give it a try. It did work well on the case, where the holes for the top light box had originally been filled, but badly.
Great story badpenny, thanks for that. On that basis, I will go with hammer black, but I'm still going to try auto filler for the pitting, even though hammer is quite good at masking.
By the way, I tried a cheap moon lock, and the one I chose would not go far enough away from the back of the door, to 'reach' forward enough into the machine, for the lock bar to clear into the recessed edge in the hood. All the bar did was press on the edge of the hood above the door, stopping the lock turning completely to remove the key. Really, for the lock I chose, the lock needed to go up into the rectangular slot in the door, between the two screw holes, but it was too wide to pass through.
In order to achieve this, I've had to cut the sides off the moon lock, and it now sits right up in the rectangle in the door, as opposed to behind it. I've made a rubber backed wooden spacer for behind it, to push it up into position, and using another piece of rubber, on top of it, I can clamp it down onto my spacer with the metal bracket. This allows me to squeeze it harder and harder, as required to make an interference fit between the lock bar and the back of the hood so that the door will be nice and tight.
I don't know how they should be fitted 'properly' but then again, I don't have a proper lock, so I have to make it work without adjusting the door or hood from original. For example, I could easily have filed the hood, but there was no way I was going to do that.
As for auto filler, I have some, so I'll give it a try. It did work well on the case, where the holes for the top light box had originally been filled, but badly.
Great story badpenny, thanks for that. On that basis, I will go with hammer black, but I'm still going to try auto filler for the pitting, even though hammer is quite good at masking.
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
All the little dots are now filled with grey car filler. Smoother than a baby's bum.
Only took me all day, lol.
Only took me all day, lol.
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
Finished.
Inside of door.
From the outside, fitted, and nice and snug.
Inside of door.
From the outside, fitted, and nice and snug.
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
lol, er, no thanks.
I spent a stupid amount of time on that door, as I did with much of everything else, taking two years, or so all told. Doubt I could apply that level of effort on several more doors.
Only thing left, if I decide to do it, is a full mechanism disassembly, so that all the internal mechanical bits will look equally new too, but I haven't convinced myself to do that yet, especially as it just works. I have done hundreds and hundreds of plays, and there's never a hiccup.
For now, I will deploy it in its final home, and call it done, at least for a while.
Thanks TF, and all others who helped me get this far.
I spent a stupid amount of time on that door, as I did with much of everything else, taking two years, or so all told. Doubt I could apply that level of effort on several more doors.
Only thing left, if I decide to do it, is a full mechanism disassembly, so that all the internal mechanical bits will look equally new too, but I haven't convinced myself to do that yet, especially as it just works. I have done hundreds and hundreds of plays, and there's never a hiccup.
For now, I will deploy it in its final home, and call it done, at least for a while.
Thanks TF, and all others who helped me get this far.
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
I did post in this thread about making some springs for my restoration, but many of the posts got moved to a thread dealing with springs. It contains information about ebay lots, or similar, of mixed springs, and also on how to make your own from spring steel wire. Those I had missing, I made, and that method has worked perfectly for my needs. I too could have bought a mixed batch, but I got more satisfaction from learning how to make them, doing so, and then using them. Link to spring thread below:
Sourcing & making springs for slot machines
Sourcing & making springs for slot machines
- badpenny
- Forum Moderator
- Posts: 7212
- Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 12:41 pm
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- Location: East Midlands
Re: Sega Mad Money Restoration
If you're asking because you're looking to source replacements, then ...
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke- ... plit-pins/
... and cut to length.
BP
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke- ... plit-pins/
... and cut to length.
BP
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