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Never giving much thought to the question of which glue is ideal for slot machine cabinet repair/restoration, for years on most projects I've opted for Evo-Stik exterior wood glue. My thinking: I don't use much of it; I'm only going to do the job once; no need to pinch pennies; why not use the best?


But as I went to pick up a new bottle at B&Q yesterday, my reasoning was questioned by she who monitors the household budget. As I struggled to defend my choice, I realized it was largely based upon ignorance. Besides, the difference in cost between a bog-standard cheapo PVA and Evo-Stik wood glue is pounds, not pennies.

Many questions come to mind:

I chose exterior for its water/weather resistance, but if the machine's left outdoors or in damp storage, wood joints will be the least problem.
It contains a biocide, which might discourage the little wood-eating grubs from entering via the joints, but usually their first point of attack is the plywood.

Is PVA the best option anyway?

A problem that soon becomes apparent is that it doesn't absorb wood stain as readily as the wood itself, which can result in unsightly joins. Also, if it gets on to the wood surface (as is likely) it leaves a residue which affects the finish — especially on open-grained woods like oak.

A selling point of PVA is that it can make a join stronger than the wood itself. In fact this seems to be true regardless of brand or price, as demonstrated in these hair-raising youtuber's experiments:



But is a glue with a permanent bond stronger than the wood itself what we want when restoring valuable antique artefacts? Shouldn't everything we do be reversible and, where possible, using contemporary materials, e.g. hide glue (another dilemma for us vegetarians)?

Today, woodworkers choose both forms of hide glue primarily for the leeway (i.e., reversibility) it offers as it dries and its natural lubricating properties. It creates lasting, yet flexible joints, which is why many antiques are still repaired with hide glue. Using this adhesive preserves the quality of antiques and honors traditional craftsmanship, making it the best wood glue for furniture of bygone eras.

The Best Wood Glues of 2022

Anyone have any thoughts?

My woodwork teacher at Whitley Abbey Comprehensive always had a pot manufactured of indistinguishable material slowly bubbling away above a very low gas burner.
The teacher's name was Shelton, he told us he had been in Aberfan 21 October 1966 and had been shovelling until he was exhausted.
Two things about him that made us all shrink away from him were ...
- He told us that the foul smelling contents of his warm glue pot was mainly melted wild rabbit he had snared himself.
- When telling us anything theoretical about woodwork, he made us sit on our work benches with our feet dangling. He'd walk around among us delivering his words of wisdom. Suddenly he'd slide his hand down a boy's leg and heavily grip either side just above the knee cap and squeeze until he achieved a scream. His choice seemed random, however on reflection, it might not have been.
Times were different then.
Still when it comes to Wood Glue, it's what I predominantly think of.

BP

PS for years I used Cascamite

I have always used the evo stik weatherproof (blue) / (green) normal wood adhesive with excellent results. I would not use rabbit skin glue for many reasons, not least because I have been veggie for nearly 40 years.

Toolstation has x1L green @9.99 and blue x1L @ 11.99

I used to use Evo blue, but have now switched to Gorilla Glue for a simple reason... it has an excellent top that never blocks up and gives a even flow when using. Even though marginally more expensive, I cannot think how many glue bottles of other varieties half full have gone in the bin. I use a large bottle every two months - great stuff.

I have a preference for Evo Impact and on average can sniff my way through two medium sized ones a week.

bryans fan wrote: ↑Wed Jun 29, 2022 7:27 pm ... I would not use rabbit skin glue for many reasons, not least because I have been veggie for nearly 40 years.

I don't think the idea is to DRINK it!

badpenny wrote:He told us that the foul smelling contents of his warm glue pot was mainly melted wild rabbit he had snared himself

Our woodwork teacher told us that the bubbling brown stinky glue over the gas ring was made from horse and cow hooves. I can still recall that smell of glue now. The teacher was a small Welsh man and very tolerant and lenient towards us and possessed hardly any discipline. I cannot ever recall him raising his voice (perhaps he had a 'bad' war). By contrast our metalwork teacher was very strict and would think nothing of giving a lad a 'clip around the ear' if the lad needed it. His name was Ike Gradwell and we called him red Ike as he was the local communist party leader and candidate for the town. One of the pupil's father caused quite a rumpus at the school as he would not let his son be taught by a communist.... Interesting days.

Great stories, Mates. Now, if someone would chime in with a good one about the Catholic nuns and a ruler....

J Peterson
Glued to the screen, USA

The funniest Nun with a ruler gag is to be seen in the Blues Brothers.

My woodwork teacher also, "possessed hardly any discipline", but disciplined his class by throwing chisels at us. I don't think they allow it nowadays. Health and safety gone mad.

bryans fan wrote: ↑Wed Jun 29, 2022 7:27 pm I have always used the evo stik weatherproof (blue) / (green) normal wood adhesive with excellent results.

But that begs two of my questions:
Would you get the same results with a much cheaper brand of PVA?
Is it an excellent result when the gold standard of period restoration/conservation is reversibility? Are we unwittingly making future repair work harder?

The type of glue used on the original joinery is important. Prior to the mid forties, hot animal hide glue was the traditional glue used in furniture assembly. After that time, PVA glues eventually replaced hide glue. Hide glue has some annoying application characteristics but it's redemption is in the fact that it is reversible. It can be "re-activated" with water and heat and it will re-bond to itself. This means that joints originally glued with hide glue do not have to scraped to bare wood to get the new glue to stick. Just re-apply some new glue after moistening the old glue with hot water. You can use either hot hide glue made from dry granules or pre-mixed hide glue like Franklin's. The pre-mixed variety will give you more open time to work than the hot type. You can also use a PVA glue to re-glue an old hide glued joint, but be very cautious with doing this on antiques. PVA glue is not considered reversible and will make any future repairs difficult.

Repairing Furniture Joints - antique restorers

One might wonder, why continue to use hide glue? First, it is a good adhesive, it can hold up for decades to centuries in ideal environmental conditions. Second, for anyone who wishes to maintain the originality of valuable antiques, hide glue is an essential part of that originality. A third reason often given is that it is reversible. It's very weakest feature can be a benefit when taking apart a piece to replace a broken component.

https://furniturerenewal.com/repair/re- ... iture.html

Another good reason to 'continue' to use hide glue is that it is a renewable resource.
I don't know what PVA is made from, but I'll wager it has something to do with petroleum.

From t'web

PVA is made up of a water-based emulsion of a widely used type of glue, referred to variously as wood glue, white glue, carpenter's glue, school glue, or PVA glue. PVA is largely used in glass fiber-reinforced plastics to improve the stress and antishrink properties. It is also used in automobile headlights to promote their gloss performance. In addition, PVA may be added to cement/concrete where it can improve the water-resistance properties. Because PVA is a emulsion, not a true water solution, once the film is dry, it is rather hydrophobic.

PVA stands for Polyvinyl Acetate

Hydrophobic!
It has Rabies?

Totally off Topic.
However I learnt this week that rabies only presents symptoms similar to hydrophobia.

The virus needs water to successfully transfer through a bite. So to ensure the host has a mouth awash with saliva the virus stops the host from swallowing. Tales are told of frothing at the mouth.